2004 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

Disgorged Feb 2013 (from BI stock). Two-thirds Pinot Noir. Dosage 4.25 g/l, as in every year. No malo. Pale gold. This seems softer and more subdued than the 2008 just tasted, with a more noticeable toasty character and less direct on the palate. It is already very drinkable but Charles Philipponnat suggests it will go a long way 'because nothing can go wrong with it'. There's a toasty richness on the palate, even a slight note of char and chamomile. As it opens up, it starts to show a more floral character. A complex and unfolding wine that cannot be rushed if you want to enjoy its multi-layered character. (JH)

The 2004 Clos des Goisses is dense and powerful in the glass, with all of the pure, unbridled energy that has always been such a signature here. Hints of lemon peel, mint, spice and crushed rocks emerge with time in the glass, but, despite its considerable beauty and unquestioned pedigree, the 2004 is frankly years away from delivering the full Clos des Goisses experience. Disgorged February 2013.

65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. Single site with 14 plots. 10 years' ageing on lees before disgorgement. Dosage 4.25 g/l. No malo. Complex aroma showing deep lees effect – orange, ginger, biscuit. Really tight on the palate. Sour, coiled freshness, with that austerity of not-quite-ready and no malo. Has amazing potential still. Mouthwatering verging on eye-watering and endlessly long. My favourite in this line-up. (JH)