1986 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

Vinified in old oak and enameled vats—a traditional approach of the time—Philipponnat’s 1986 Clos des Goisses, disgorged in September 2016 with the house’s customary dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, is drinking at its absolute peak today. It opens with an expressive bouquet of ripe peach, gingerbread and candied citrus peel, with a subtle hint of mushroom, likely indicative of rot pressure at the end of the growing season. On the palate, it is full-bodied, expansive and layered, with a rich core of fruit supported by vibrant acidity, concluding with a saline, gently citrus-inflected finish.