2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese 6

Muller’s 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese A.P. #6 smells sweetly of pear nectar, quince jelly, and gardenia. Refined in flavors and satiny in texture, it combines a relative softness of ripe acids with a near weightless impression. After the dramatic minerality, nooks and crannies of flavor, and overall intensity exhibited by this year’s auction Spatlese, one has to recalibrate to appreciate the gentle virtues of this Auslese #6, but the orchard fruit and floral flavors here go on and on, and I would bet on the wine’s taking on further complexity while preserving its distinctive balance over at least a 20-year period. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling “Scharzhof” ($ unknown; 86). Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700