2007 Chambolle Musigny Les Fuees

Chateau de Chambolle’s 2007 Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuees transports the taster to a dark forest floor full of passing game. But there is ripe fruit, too, in the form of mace-tinged lightly-cooked plum and black raspberry. With an almost stewed palate richness, this may not be especially Chambolle-typical; but it’s nonetheless satisfying, leading to a finish in which the animal and woodsy elements as well as those of spice and fruit are present in equal measure, ‘though I suspect that over the next 4-6 years – when I anticipate this being most fun to drink – the balance will tip in the carnal direction. Frederic Mugnier’s 2008s – which I last tasted shortly before their March bottling – did not experience the exceptionally late malo-lactic transformation that characterized so many wines of that vintage. Yields were especially low thanks not only to vintage-typical millerandage, but – particularly in the case of Les Amoureuses – to the vines’ slow recovery from the shock of 2007 hail. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

Good bright, deep red. Very ripe suggestion of cherry liqueur on the nose. Sweet, pliant and fat with fruit, with the musky red fruit notes nicely complemented by smoky minerality. Less detailed than usual for this cuvee but finishes broad and classically dry.

Musky nose is dominated by pungent smoky minerality and crushed stone. Then fatter and chewier than the village wine, with more smoky oak and brown spices showing. Finishes with a note of tobacco. Seems less pristine and distinctive than the village wine, but there's more wine here. A sample from a second barrel was still quite bound-up, showing musky strawberry and mocha notes and a bit more clarity.