2005 Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese

This is the 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese A.P. #11. So ominously smoky, citric, high-toned, yeasty, and spiritous that it flares the nostrils, this amazing wine comes onto the palate thick and creamy, packed with peach jam, dried apricot, white raisins and honey, yet also suffused with invigoratingly fresh citrus. A T.B.A. possessed of a truly remarkable finish, it somehow combines gripping intensity of citrus, pit fruits, and honey with the suggestion of effortless, weightless lift-off. The remaining T.B.A.s – of which there will be two or three depending on whether each of the lots reaches the level of alcohol to legally count as “wine” – will be offered in the manner usual for Muller bottlings of upper-Pradikat, namely at future auctions. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling “Scharzhof” ($ unknown; 86). Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700