1988 Tertre Roteboeuf

A sleeper vintage for proprietor Mitjavile’s beloved Tertre Roteboeuf, the 1988 has a deep plum/garnet color and a gorgeous nose of earth, underbrush, cherry cough syrup, licorice, and caramel. It is full-bodied, very pure, ripe, with loads of concentration, yet good definition and structure. No, it is not as dense as the 1989 nor as flamboyant and flashy as the 1990, but this is a classic Tertre Roteboeuf that should continue to drink well for at least another 10-15 years. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 12/02. Jan 2003, www.robertparker.com

Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf was a hot estate in the late 1980s and early 1990s but then lost some of its luster. I was lucky enough to find a bottle in Bordeaux at a small restaurant, from one of its first top vintages — 1988 — and it turned out to be a delicious bottle. It was still big and rich with lots of dried fruits and spice. Full-bodied and tannic. Shows that many 1988 Bordeaux are still beautiful and flavorful.