1986 Beychevelle

Storming wine, still generous and full of pleasure, a reminder of just how good Beychevelle has been in the past, and why it's such a joy to see how far it return to form over the past decade. I last had this two years ago, and it hasn't budged one bit - still full of smoked earth, truffles, rose petal and peony floral aromatics, tobacco and undergrowth, softly spun tannins and an unhurried desire to please, still fresh and treading lightly through the palate. Maurice Ruelle winemaker. There is bottle variation in this vintage, but we were lucky with this beautiful example, as I was last time, giving me confidence to put a high score against it.

The 1986 Beychevelle is certainly one of the better wines from a rather inconsistent decade for the property. It's one that I've tasted from various formats over the years. This has a lovely, mature nose with loam, mulberry and pencil-shaving scents; it has lost some of its fruit in recent years. The palate is quite different and one of the fleshier Left Bank wines in an otherwise austere growing season, though it just fades a little on the finish. Tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux.

Served in a large glass, to accentuate the stunning floral aromatics. This was the wine of the night, and a real surprise as I was unsure if 1986 Beychevelle would still be delivering. But it certainly is, absolutely worth looking out for and sharing. Violet, peony, undergrowth, gentle tannins, still full of life and joy. One to share.