2008 Gevrey Chambertin

The Rousseau 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin smells of black tea, smoked meats, and fresh red berries, comes to the palate delicate and tart though subtly suggesting creaminess, and with an appealing, bittersweet note of tangerine oil emerging in a finish of invigoration and slightly awkward sizzle, reinforced by residual CO2. This should be appealing for short-term consumption, and perhaps more expressive after it sheds some CO2. Eric Rousseau did not begin harvesting until September 28, but was finished already on October 4, with – as usual – the entire burden of selection placed on his pickers. The resultant wines prove that, as he puts it “they know what they’re doing” and sorting tables are unnecessary. Grapes came in between around 12% and 13.2%, were virtually all destemmed, and were only lightly chaptalized. Levels of malic acid were however higher even than in 2004, reports Rousseau, who compares the fruit with that of 1996, but does not finger the wines as strong candidates for long-term aging (“long term” – bear in mind – meaning upwards of 20 years in the context of a Rousseau track-record). When I tasted his 2008s in late February, Rousseau was planning to bottle them in March or April, a bit earlier than usual, although several struck me as relatively unformed. But then, his malos had finished by July – not late in terms of the vintage. (Unfortunately, I had only one chance to taste Rousseau 2007s: fleetingly, selectively, at a stage too early to merit reporting on in detail, although the trend was promising and Rousseau is keen on the results.) Importer: Frederic Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Medium red. Aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and herbs. Juicy, pure and reasonably penetrating, with modest flesh to the red fruit and spice flavors. The weak link in the lineup in terms of verve.