2006 Gevrey Chambertin

The generic Mortet 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin consists in a compilation from all of his younger vines, and represents nearly half of his total production in Gevrey appellations. Ripe dark cherry and blackberry tinged accented by brown spices and smoked meat in the nose migrate to a substantial, rich, meaty palate (in no way the sort one associates with "young vines") whereon tart fruit skin and spice offer invigoration. This falls down just a bit in the finish, however, by revealing a slight dry spot. Perhaps a bit more time post-bottling will have covered that, but I am skeptical. For his first entirely solo vintage, Arnaud Mortet was saddled with a load of challenges, most notably the legacy of hail in so many of his vineyards. His reaction was to back off on extraction and new wood, trends which he seems inclined to continue pursuing even in less tricky vintages. He opines that the "acid structure" of his 2006s – which are also amply endowed with largely fine-grained tannins – will help them age well. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Good deep red. Aromas of dark raspberry and spices. The palate offers good density and a light touch, but the dark berry and spice flavors are not yet expressing themselves. Classically dry wine, with a juicy finish featuring dusty tannins.

(from vines between 20 and 50 years of age) Good deep medium red. Musky raspberry and flowers on the aromatic nose. Supple and fruit-driven, with sweet raspberry and cherry fruit complicated by hints of leather and meat; very Gevrey. Still a bit youthfully tight. Finishes with firm, slightly dry tannins.