1998 Clos de Sarpe

The 1998 Clos de Sarpe was the first vintage to use 100% new barrels (the previous vintage had been matured in 50% new oak and the remainder in tank). It is also the first year where the Grand Vin came exclusively from the older vines; the younger vines were from the deuxième vin. It has quite a high-toned bouquet with mulberry and blackcurrant fruit, peppermint and a touch of clove. This is far superior to the previous vintages that were aged in tank. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little more roundness and certainly more generosity than the 1985 or 1990. This does not possess finesse or refinement, but the oak gives the wine cohesion that was missing up until this point. Bottles of perfect provenance will still give pleasure.

The 1998 Château Clos de Sarpe is another start of a dramatic change in winemaker, with new oak being introduced to the estate in 1997 (that wine was brought up in equal parts new oak and concrete) and the 1998 to present being brought up all in new barrels. The 1987 was also the first vintage to be completely destemmed (by hand) and the estate started using a mechanical destemmer in 2005. The 1998 reveals a still youthful ruby color as well as a big, ripe, sexy nose of blackcurrants, cigar wrappers, toasted spice, and sweet oak. These carry to a powerful, full-bodied Saint-Emilion that has a wonderful sweetness of fruit, a stacked mid-palate, sweet tannins, and a great finish. It's drinking brilliantly today yet has a long life ahead of it.

Medium to deep garnet-brick in color, the 1998 Clos de Sarpe gives a beautiful perfume of Chinese five spice, sandalwood and preserved plums with notions of dried mulberries, potpourri, black truffles, cast iron pan and a compelling waft of aniseed. Medium-bodied with wonderful elegance, incredible freshness and a scintillating satiny texture, the perfumed layers just go on and on. Wow—fantastic surprise!