2004 Vina Pedrosa Gran Reserva

(100% tempranillo) Vivid ruby. Hugely aromatic bouquet of cherry liqueur, singed plum, fruitcake, potpourri and licorice. Like a dark fruit compote in the mouth, with palate-coating sweetness and a surprising jolt of minerality adding life. Extremely rich and ripe but with real verve. Finishes with excellent thrust and a resonating note of candied licorice. This big boy should be stashed away for a while. (I also had the chance to taste the 2004 and 2001 Gran Reservas when I visited the winery. The '04 is still showing a smoky, spicy oak influence but the powerful fruit is more than up to it. Hands off for now. The 2001 was showing very well but its youthful energy and sweet fruit suggest that it is aging at a snail's pace. Jose Manuel Perez Ovejas told me that this wine won't hit its stride for another five years or so.)