1994 Smith Haut Lafitte

Magnum. Dark blackish ruby with a rusty edge. Much more direction and focus than the 1990. Seems more than four years younger. Vigorous palate attack. Very sweet start with dry end and masses of lively fruit in the middle. A little bit of dried-blood impression (old Merlot) on the end. Good freshness. Not intense but very nice balance. (JR)

This was a quite remarkable wine, which seemed to get younger and younger in the glass. Pale gold, not initially that attractive on the nose, with a developed woody (not oaky) aroma, touches of boxwood, honey and lanolin. Classic aged Sauvignon Blanc nose – at first. On the palate, creamy, fresh and even some lemon and apricot fruit still there. But it just got fresher and fresher in the glass and that initial woodiness seem to clear away to more delicate subtle aromas. (JH)

This property is worthy of readers' interest as the wines continue to go from strength to strength (this is also true of the gorgeous dry white wines being made at Smith-Haut-Lafitte). A surprisingly soft, supple, velvety-textured 1994, Smith-Haut-Lafitte has managed to subdue the potential for astringent tannin in this vintage. This wine possesses a healthy purple color, a smoky, spicy, blackcurrant-scented nose, sweet, medium-bodied, well-endowed flavors, a youthfulness and grapiness that does not yet exhibit the complexity of the 1993, and a moderately tannic finish. The 1994 should reach maturity in 2-4 years, and last for 15-18.