2004 Jean Milan Terres de Noel

The 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Selection Terres de Noel emerges from a parcel of 70-year-old vines in Oger. Here the weight of the old vines is felt in the wine’s gravitas and structure. A powerful, inward wine, the 2004 Terres de Noel shows gorgeous richness that emerges over time to balance the intense structural elements. Today the Terres de Noel is an infant, but it should be fabulous in another few years’ time. This is L 0004, disgorged June, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. It’s great to see Milan bounce back so quickly after last year’s disappointing wines. The estate’s issues may have originated at the bottling line since the new disgorgements of the flagship 2004 Symphorine and 2004 Terres de Noel are much cleaner than last year’s releases of the same wines. Readers need to be sure they are buying the current releases and not bottles from last year that might still be out in the market. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(all grand cru chardonnay from 70-year-old vines in Oger; disgorged June, 2010) Bright yellow. Expressive nose offers vanilla-accented pear and peach scents, with sexy high notes of honeysuckle, lavender and mace. Dense, supple and perfumed in the mouth, with harmonious minerality adding clarity and lift to the juicy orchard fruit and floral flavors. The long, smoky finish features lovely spiciness and excellent energy.

The 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Séléction Terres de Noël is a fresh, floral Champagne laced with citrus peel, white peaches, flowers and intense minerality. The Terres de Noël offers a touch more fruit than the 2004 Symphorine but it, too, remains an essentially compact, mid-weight wine with limited complexity. The Terres de Noël is 100% Chardonnay from Oger. Disgorged September, 2009