2008 Contrada Porcaria

The 2008 Passopisciaro Contrada Porcaria stands apart from the other 2008 single-vineyard bottlings in its dark, sensual fruit and masculine personality. Sweet menthol, spices and minerals develop in the glass, adding further shades of nuance to this decidedly virile, dark Nerello Mascalese. The finish is rich, dense and totally convincing. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. The Etna is one of Italy's most fascinating emerging wine regions and Andrea Franchetti is arguably the area's most fanatical, driven producer. High altitude vineyards, volcanic soils, ancient indigenous grape varieties in Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio and a rediscovery of the uniqueness of these vineyards are among the reasons for the spectacular growth in interest the Etna has seen in recent years. In 2008 Franchetti bottled his single-vineyard Nerello Mascaleses separately, resulting in four new wines, all of which are well worth discovering. The regular Passopisciaro bottling doesn't seem to have suffered, as it is magnificent in this vintage. Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504

The 2008 Passopisciaro Contrada Porcaria stands apart from the other 2008 single-vineyard bottlings in its dark, sensual fruit and masculine personality. Sweet menthol, spices and minerals develop in the glass, adding further shades of nuance to this decidedly virile, dark Nerello Mascalese. The finish is rich, dense and totally convincing. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. Jun 2010, www.robertparker.com