2005 Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots

The Cathiard 2005 Vosne-Romanee Aux Reignots displays black cherry, clove, cinnamon and cumin aromatics, fine continuation of spice and luscious black cherry and cassis fruit with a flattering, supple feel, though it’s overall just a bit too marked by obvious wood for its own good, and slightly less texturally-refined than Cathiard’s Chambolle. His vines in Reignots are only approaching twenty years of age. Interestingly, I recently revisited the last vintage from old vines, 1987, and that wine was still attractive, if a bit attenuated. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

(from vines planted in the early '90s) Good full medium red. Cassis, licorice, flowers, minerals and a whiff of tar on the nose. Sweet and supple in the mouth; a step up in texture from the village wines despite the youth of these vines. Nicely juicy and intense wine, finishing with palate-dusting tannins.