1996 Clos de la Roche

Exhibiting a medium-to-dark ruby color and lovely floral aromas of cherries, cassis, leather, and blackberries, this wine has excellent intensity and concentration of black fruits as well as earthy, and stony flavors. This medium-to-full-bodied, harmonious, introverted (particularly after the previous offering), and oily-textured wine also possesses a long and firm finish. Drink it between 2001 and 2007. As far as the 1996 vintage is concerned, Rousseau's comments were bluntly candid - "the North wind is concentration. It saves a harvest, prevents rot, concentrates color and sugar, concentrates everything we want. 1996 is better than 1990, it may be too early to say, but there, I said it." With that, Rousseau picked up one of the tastevins hanging on the wall (these are the small, wide, shallow, and traditional silver utensils used for tasting. As far as I know he is the only Burgundian who continues to use them on a regular basis), and the tasting began. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

This is one very pretty wine albeit a light one for Clos de la Roche. Exuberant, still completely primary and altogether lovely aromas of earth, red fruits and a hint of game lead to barely medium weight flavors that are wonderfully pure, utterly delicious and beautifully defined. Initially, the wine seems quite light, too light in fact but with 30 minutes of air, the aromas and flavors deepen and broaden, becoming richer and more interesting. Still, this is hardly typical of the vineyard as the wine is so delicious and sweet that it's gulpable, which is a word that is not exactly a compliment when one is referring to high end Burgundy. I liked this quite a bit but again, for reasons that wouldn't necessarily apply to a classic Clos de la Roche. One could easy approach this now though if you do, give it at least 30 minutes of air first. That said, I would be inclined to give it another 2 to 3 years in the cellar as it certainly has the balance and acidity to age gracefully, if not necessarily improve for another 10 years. Allen Meadows, Burghound Jan17,2004

Exhibiting a medium-to-dark ruby color and lovely floral aromas of cherries, cassis, leather, and blackberries, this wine has excellent intensity and concentration of black fruits as well as earthy, and stony flavors. This medium-to-full-bodied, harmonious, introverted (particularly after the previous offering), and oily-textured wine also possesses a long and firm finish. Drink it between 2001 and 2007. As far as the 1996 vintage is concerned, Rousseau's comments were bluntly candid - the North wind is concentration. It saves a harvest, prevents rot, concentrates color and sugar, concentrates everything we want. 1996 is better than 1990, it may be too early to say, but there, I said it. With that, Rousseau picked up one of the tastevins hanging on the wall (these are the small, wide, shallow, and traditional silver utensils used for tasting. As far as I know he is the only Burgundian who continues to use them on a regular basis), and the tasting began. Pierre Rovani, Wine Advocate # 118