2005 Clos de la Roche

The 2005 Clos de la Roche constitutes fewer than 40 cases worth of Pinot from vines over 50 years in age. Aromas of roasted game, cedar, blackberry and black cherry preserves, and kirsch distillate high tones lead into a rich, sweet palate that incorporates invigorating tart fruit skin and salty mineral notes. Low-toned suggestions of game, stone, pungent sage and marjoram and mushrooms add further complexity. A creamy texture and refined tannins suggest that this will make for a lovely self-indulgence in 5-7 years. The Lecheneaut brothers – Vincent and Philippe – were still hoping to get the last of two wines (a Chorey-les-Beaune and one of two lots of village Nuits-St.-Georges, the final blend of which, while promising, could therefore not be fairly assessed) to go through malo at the time of my visit. But other than that, things were looking delicious indeed in this cellar. Alcohol levels came in almost shockingly low given the ripeness of flavors on display (in fact, the brothers chaptalized a bit to extend the fermentations) and most but not all of the wines had the requisite concentration to resist any obvious marking by their 50-100% of new oak. These are forward, early-flattering, often positively flamboyant wines for the vintage. The samples I tasted had been drawn in proper proportion just prior to their having been racked and assembled for bottling (which was imminent). Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.