1996 Clos de la Roche

The 1996 Clos de la Roche is a powerful, brooding Burgundy. The combination of the natural acidity of this site coupled with that of the year come together to produce a powerful, tightly wound red Burgundy that appears to still need time! Classically austere, potent and tightly wound, the 1996 ideally still needs to be cellared. Whether or not the 1996 ever fully comes around remains an open question. Watching the wine’s evolution in the glass, I am optimistic that will happen at some point. The 1996 is a wine for classicists, that much is clear.

A slightly macerated nose of notably ripe red berry fruits that are still entirely primary is trimmed in moderately prominent new wood that leads to solidly concentrated medium weight plus flavors that offer excellent length and plenty of finishing complexity. While not a particularly structured '96, neither has it reached its peak and for my taste, I would not begin seriously looking at this for at least another 2 to 4 years, perhaps even longer. Multiple, and consistent, notes.

This wine is dark ruby-colored and offers a nose of extraordinary purity, depth and richness. Scents of gravel, earth, violets, perfume, jammy blueberries, cassis liqueur, black cherries, and hints of road tar are followed by a velvety-textured, full-bodied, and magnificently concentrated wine. Candied cherries, stones, rosemary, spicy oak, Asian spices, and hints of chocolate can be found in this blockbuster's powerful yet graceful flavor profile and substantial finish. Armed with virtually perfect balance and harmony, an amazing depth of fruit, and copious quantities of seamless, satin-textured tannins, this marvel should prove to be one of the vintage's most ageworthy wines. Projected maturity: 2005-2018. I am ecstatic to announce that the Lignier's holdings in this wine have increased by 25%. A recent purchase of "a very good parcel" rounded out their ownership to an even 1 hectare (2.471 acres) of vines ranging from 32 to 40 years old. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.