2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Juline

Inky purple. Lavishly oak-spiced aromas of cassis, blackberry jam and kirsch Cherry-vanilla and cola flavors are round and sweet, with soft tannins adding structure. Impresses with power if not finesse, finishing with strong oak spice and dark berry preserve flavor. Defiantly modern: I wonder how long it will take for the fruit to crawl out from under the assertive oak.

Grenache and Syrah vines aged 45 to 93 years, aged in new barriques for 18 months. Very dark crimson – almost brooding. Sample is oxidising, but there is clearly a whole lot going on here. Very grown-up and multi-layered. Lots of sweet black cherries, but also some finesse and minerality. Very interesting wine. Very sophisticated. Clean, clear-cut finish that persists quite a while. (JR)

The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Juline is a 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah that is fermented and aged in new oak. While very modern in orientation, given the huge concentration and fruit character in this vintage, this philosophy of winemaking and upbringing works far better in 2007 than it did in 2008. However, readers should be prepared for a wine that falls outside the normal parameters of Chateauneuf du Pape. It reveals plenty of vanillin, blackberry and cassis fruit intertwined with hints of espresso roast and smoke, deep, concentrated, full-bodied flavors, and lots of upside potential. Cellar it for 2-3 years and consume it over the following 15-20. ||In a vintage – 2008 – where few estate made special cuvees from single vineyards or old vines, I was surprised to see all three cuvees from Paul Autard’s 62-acre estate in 2008. However, after tasting them I must say this property appears to have solved the year’s challenges.||Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082; various American importers Wine Advocate.October, 2009