1998 Dom Ruinart Rose

The Ruinart 1998 Brut Rose Dom Ruinart I sampled was noticeably marked in texture and complexity by both its long stay on the lees and considerable time in bottle, not to mention by its significant share of red wine. Sour cherry and rhubarb, rose hip and geranium, smoky black tea and old leather, grapefruit zest and sea water combine for an aromatic performance whose counterpart on a still very sappy and vivacious yet expansive and richly textured palate is satisfyingly long-lasting. The roughly 15% of red Pinot added here to what is essentially the same cuvee as the white Dom Ruinart of its vintage received a longer fermentation on its skins than applied to Ruinart’s “regular” rose, which may be one reason for the nutty, meaty depth that comes out in the finish. It certainly helps explain the invigorating sense of apple skin chew and cherry pit piquancy. As so often in the realm of prestige rose, one is being asked to pay an enormous premium vis-a-vis the corresponding white wine, but in this instance you’re also paying for considerable additional aging. And this impressive bottling could easily remain so for several more years. Imported by Moet Hennessy, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

(Lot AGBFAD): Bright orange-pink. A wild, intriguingly perfumed bouquet evokes candied orange, cherry pit, licorice, potpourri and smoky lees. Deep, palate-staining red berry compote and blood orange flavors show unlikely energy and become spicier with air. At once powerful and lively, this rose finishes with superb thrust, clarity and length. I tasted the first release of this Champagne exactly five years ago and it has barely changed. If you can justify the expense for a bottle, get justifying.

Crushed roses, smoke, dried cherries and wild flowers waft from the glass as the 1998 Brut Dom Ruinart Rosé shows off its delicate, sensual personality. The 1998 Rosé impresses for its subtle understatement and total class. Although quite pretty today, the 1998 is a relatively mid-weight version of the estate's Rosé with excellent length, but not a lot of minerality. As such, I imagine the 1998 will offer most of its best drinking sooner rather than later.