1990 Dom Ruinart Rose

From magnum. Dosage 9 g/l. Very little red fruit at all. Milky, salty, tight. Very austere and structural. (RH)

The 1990 Dom Ruinart Rosé (magnum) was another showstopper. This big, opulent wine revealed an expansive personality, with tons of fruit and impeccable balance.

Copper-orange color, deeper at its core. Fascinating nose reminded me of a great 40-year-old red Burgundy : truffle, smoke, minerals, earth and a hint of celery seed. Then high-toned, quite ripe and uncompromisingly dry, with iron-like earth, mushroom and tobacco flavors suffused by a smoky, meaty character. Extremely idiosyncratic rose-and I love it! Finishes long and harmonious; shows Pedro Ximenez-like notes of toffee, raisin and molasses on the end, but sound acids give lift and verve to the aftertaste.