2008 Ultreia St Jacques

The 2008 Ultreia St. Jacques is 100% Mencia aged for 12 months in egg-shaped, 1500-liter barrels with batonnage. It displays a super-fragrant perfume of boysenberry, rhubarb, and cranberry followed by a succulent, dense, concentrated, and mouth-filling wine. It is a feast for both the intellect and the senses and may well be the best wine under $25 from anywhere. These wines have no track record of longevity but the balance and fruit quality suggest to me that my aging estimates are probably conservative. Of course, time will tell. Importer: Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY; www.ole imports.com