NV Jacques Selosse Sous le Mont

The NV Blanc de Noirs Mareuil-sur-Ay Sous le Mont, based on the 2017 vintage and disgorged in February 2024 with two grams per liter dosage, is difficult to recommend this year. A wine that derives from an east-facing site in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, it is usually much better than this. Unfortunately, this time it is strongly dominated by aromas of champignon de Paris, with an autumnal, bruised-apple profile. 2017 wasn’t an easy year for red grapes in Champagne, with botrytis and powdery mildew pressure, and this site, as it shows, wasn’t immune to the challenges that the end of the growing season presented. Considering the moisture during the harvest, the undesirable mushroom taint appears to be linked to the quality of fruit and emerged later during the élevage. That’s a pity, as the wine is shallower than usual. However, this note should not discourage readers from other renditions of this cuvée.

The NV (2009) Extra-Brut Mareuil sur Aÿ Sous Le Mont is superb. The Mareuil has been the least consistent performer in this range since Anselme Selosse introduced his lieu-dit Champagnes a few years back, but this edition is terrific, as it avoids some of the dryness that affected previous releases. Small red berries, mint, herbs and wild flowers give the wine its energy and vibrancy, while there is more than enough depth in the fruit to balance the Pinot tannins. The 2009 is very nicely done.

Slightly deeper gold than Les Carelles. Completely different on the nose. Herbal and spiced and garrique at first though gets broader and richer; then much tighter on the palate, less breadth than above, red fruit coming through. Slight sour freshness and a bit nutty on the finish. Tastes drier than the other lieux-dits wines. Somehow seems less of a whole, perhaps because of the more recent disgorgement? Doesn't hang together as well, at least not at the moment.