2006 Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux

Rouget alludes to the aromas of his 2006 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux as "tres particulaire," and you can say that again! Cassis, black raspberry, licorice, musk, toasted pistachio, ginger, and white pepper amaze the nose, followed by an implosive palate concentration that incorporates stony, chalky, and somehow ore-like mineral essences. The sense of sappy cling and invigorating, vibratory impingement of spice and mineral matter here left both my salivary and adrenal glands pumping. This fissionable vinous material should be cellared for at least half a dozen years and then vigilantly followed for at least a further decade. Emmanuel Rouget was very pleased with the "unusually long evolution" of his youthful 2006s – which I last tasted on the eve of bottling – rendered possible not just by the frigid temperature of his relatively shallow cellars, he explained, but also by what for this vintage are impressively low pHs. Even after slight chaptalization, he says the present collection scarcely exceeds 13% alcohol. These factors no doubt help account for the balance of ripe flavors and textural polish with cut and vivacity that the 2006s here display, rendering them – as Rouget puts it – "more precise, fresh, and elegant" than his 2005s, in which respect they remind him of his 1996s. "If you compare them directly today, my 2005s almost taste heavy by comparison with these 2006s," he notes. Moreover, my own impression is that the current crop of wines has proven more resistant to the same levels of new oak – 50-100% – as were used on his 2005s (whereas the 2004s received nada). "I think that impression is on account of the acidity," of the 2006s, opines Rouget, adding "for me the acidity of Pinot is more important than the alcohol. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Dark red. Aromas of plum, redcurrant, dark chocolate and smoky oak. Quite sweet in the mouth, with an almost liqueur-like quality to the plum, kirsch, smoke and mineral flavors. Rich and powerful yet harmonious, with compelling sweetness and length on the aftertaste. Lay this one down or give it plenty of aeration.

(these vines are now about 60 years old) Bright, dark red. Nuanced nose offers cherry, smoke, minerals and flowers. Like liquid silk on entry, then juicy, pure, intense and aromatic in the middle palate. Thanks in large part to its brisk acidity (always the highest in the cellar, according to Rouget), this conveys an impression of weightlessness. Wonderful texture and breed here. Really spreads out on the back end to saturate the palate. Most New World pinot producers would sell their children to get this kind of perfume.