1989 Ausone

The 1989 Ausone is a good but not great wine, certainly one that ought to have been far better given the benevolent growing season. The nose is well defined with dark berry fruit, mocha, leather and undergrowth scents, fully matured but nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly better acidity and more freshness than the 1990. The tannins feel rather rugged – certainly an Ausone that needs to look up the word “finesse” in the dictionary, yet there is good substance and an agreeable pencil lead tinged finish. What is it missing? Just a sense of personality. Tasted at the Ausone vertical in London.

Notes of melted caramel, coffee, fruitcake, and ripe currants are moderately intense in this relatively ripe year for Ausone. Nevertheless, in the mouth there is still high tannin, a somewhat attenuated finish with medium body and average quantities of red and black currant fruits. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. Last tasted, 11/02.

(In magnum) Already quite pale and brick-coloured with considerable evolution at the rim. Markedly light nose in this company. Sweet, chunky and dusty with a dry, inky finish. Not fine, relatively neutral in fact. A medicinal quality to the fruit and some quite dusty tannins. Diffuse, heavy. (JR)