2008 Chambolle Musigny

The 2008 Chambolle-Musigny is finessed and haunting. This shows tons of harmony in its crushed flowers, hard candy and berries, all of which flow gracefully towards the saline, mineral-drenched finish. With time in the glass the layers of fruit flesh out with notable beauty and elegance. The Chambolle is a classic, translucent wine in 2008, and will delight readers who prefer the nuanced side of Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist Francois Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet’s visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogue’s 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Atlanta Wholesale Wines, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 696-9440; C’Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559

Good bright medium red. Wild raspberry, spicy oak and a touch of vanilla on the nose. Juicy, spicy and fruity but not a fleshy style, with the classic citrus zest lift of a cooler vintage. This precise, minerally wine shows lovely limestone energy and transparency to soil. Very different in style from the creamier 2009 here.

Bright red-ruby. Musky, slightly medicinal aromas of raspberry, strawberry and minerals. Snappy, pristine flavors of red fruits, minerals, flowers and spices framed by almost peppery acidity. Not hugely ripe but boasts terrific cut and energy and finishes with sneaky length. Incidentally, the malolactic fermentations of the 2008s generally finished in August, after which the wines were racked.