1996 Ployez-Jacquemart Cuvee Liesse d’Harbonville

The house’s tete de cuvee 1996 Brut Liesse d’Harbonville is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot (Noir and Meunier) aged exclusively in French oak, but with no malolactic fermentation. This is a gorgeous bottling that achieves marvelous richness in its ripe apricots, smoke, minerals, brioche, honey and sweet toasted oak, all while maintaining the acidity and verve that keeps the wine in balance. The warm, toasty aromas and flavors are beautifully balanced in this extroverted, lively wine. This is a terrific Champagne from Ployez-Jacquemart. This bottle was disgorged September, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. These elegant Champagnes from Ployez-Jacquemart are all about finesse and balance. Importer: Weygandt Metzler Importing, Ltd., Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

Pale gold with an energetic bead. Explosively perfumed aroma of pure blood orange, yellow apple and smoky minerals. Deep, palate-staining apple and orange flavors grab the palate and hold on tight, gaining serious stony bite with air. Strikingly pure and concentrated, featuring expansive citrus and orchard fruit flavors underscored by subtle smokiness and dusty citrus pith character. Already a knockout, this should be even better with another five or six years of aging.