1953 Unico

Dark ruby with a fox rim. Just slightly coarse on the nose – but only relative to the 1942. Not quite the purity and refreshment of the 1942 but still vigorous. Just a bit drying on the end. But livelier than the 1957. (JR)

80% Tinto Fino, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. The data for these vintages is a lot sketchier. The winery talks about a cold winter with lots of rain, a cold spring but quite dry and a warm summer with average rains and a big temperature difference between day and night, which is important to keep the acidity in the grapes. The élevage followed the usual pattern of the time, starting with some time in big vats, then being transferred to 700-litre oak barrels and finishing in barriques that were not new, except in the exceptional case when one of them had to be replaced. 32,000 bottles were produced. The colour is impressive for its age. Ripe melon, some volatility, a bit perplexing on the nose. I wonder if this is a sound bottle. A second bottle is much better, great mouth, a great acidity spine, long and intense. (LG)

The 1953 Unico has a beguiling, vivacious bouquet with scents of kirsch, boot polish, orange essence, cedar and pine. However, there is undeniably a lot of volatile acidity that imparts an incongruous malic aroma. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly dry tannins. It is quite masculine and foursquare and it seems drying on the finish. I have encountered better bottles of this in the past. 32,000 bottles produced. Aug 2012, www.robertparker.com