2006 Gevrey Chambertin Les Combottes

Smoky aromas and a deep, savory carnal richness and saline mineral streak characterize Arlaud's old vines 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes, from along the brief border between this premier cru and the Latricieres-Chambertin. The sweetness of caramel-tinged cherry (the only occasion for my thinking "new oak" in the course of this year's Arlaud collection) saturates a creamily-textured yet persistently juicy palate transparent to an interactive display of the aforementioned carnal and mineral savor. The long, mouth-watering finish here is informed by hints of licorice and the ineffable local note often referred to as "iron." If this isn't a tonic every bit as much as it is an elegant expression of a superb site, then I'll be very surprised. Perhaps a prescription of one bottle per year for the next eight or ten would be ideal. The 2005 has depth and energy, grip and textural richness. But this has charm and intrigue as well. Cyprien Arlaud – for more about whose very much family domaine and its recent progress and expansion, consult my report in issue 170 – harvested from September 23 through October 3, ending up with around a quarter less production than in 2005, and wines on which he reports having held back comparatively on fermentative extraction. The relatively low pH levels enhanced stability, says Arlaud, and they certainly help account for the tart edges and vivacity of the fruit character in so many of his wines. Save for the large volume of Bourgogne (bottled in January, 2008), all of the Arlaud 2006s were bottled in December, 2007, and Cyprien Arlaud is hypothesizing in retrospect that perhaps this has temporarily stunted certain wines whose bottlings might better have been postponed. (Note, though, that the wines are neither pumped nor filtered here now.) This explains the number of plus signs and question marks I employed in an attempt to offer shorthand accounts of my reactions, in many cases to hints of reduction, tightness, or tannic perturbation. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Medium red. Reduced, rather sauvage nose. Then rich and sweet but backward on the palate, with a strong loamy earth component to go with the red fruits. Sound acids and substantial fine tannins give this wine solid underlying structure but I find it very hard to assess today.

(from the estate's oldest vines, at 70 years of age) Bright, full red. Liqueur-like aromas of blueberry and warm moist earth, with the roasted aspect of a wine from a more southern region. Very ripe, lush and broad but with less precision than the Ruchots. In a drier style, and a bit dusty on the back end, with suggestions of wild herbs. This comes across as oakier today than the last couple of samples (it's aging in 40% new barrels), and is tricky to taste.