1985 le Gay

This wine has come along better than I suspected, which always gives hope for Le Gay purchasers, given how muddled, tannic, and backward these wines can be. Deep ruby/garnet with some slight amber, this wine has a smoky, earthy nose with notes of wet stone, truffle, black cherries, and stewed vegetables and herbs. Again, meatiness seems to permeate the flavors, as if someone has squeezed blood into the fermentation vats. The wine still has some tannins to lose, although it will probably never drop all of it, but there is fine depth and an excellent finish. Anticipated maturity: Now-2012. Last tasted, 11/02.