2006 Chambolle Musigny

The Barthod 2006 Chambolle-Musigny introduces more structure than the corresponding Bourgogne, but at the price of some roughness even before bottling, when I last tasted it in the form of two lots, whose features I have conflated for the purposes of my note. Lemon zest, white pepper, brown spices, and chalk all add interest to the tart red currant and cherry fruit but also a tactile impingement that reinforces the tannins. Ultimately, this is redeemed by its sheer freshness, vivacity, and sheer sass, as well as by its lingering suggestion of Chambolle-typical floral perfume that floats free of the tannins. Ghislaine Barthod's yields were low not only on account of hail (notably in Beaux Bruns and Charmes), she explained, but also on account of the relative paucity of juice in the berries. That said, as with so many of the best 2006s, Barthod's are generous and largely free of tannic severity. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990