1990 Beausejour Duffau-Lagarosse

I've been lucky enough to have the 1990 Château Beauséjour (Duffau-Lagarrosse) multiple times recently, and it's never fails to absolutely stop me in my tracks. Still youthfully ruby-hued, with a massive array of ripe red and black fruits, truffly earth, graphite, saddle leather, and an incredible sense of minerality, this singular Saint-Emilion hits the palate with full-bodied richness and depth while staying laser-like focused and sensationally elegant. I don't know what yields were at this time, but the level of concentration, depth, and richness paired with it a chiseled, focused mouthfeel (no doubt from the limestone in this vineyard) is something to behold. It's fully mature today, and I don't see any upside, so don't make the mistake of waiting too long. This is one of the legendary wines of Saint-Emilion that I truly wish every reader could taste!

Very dark crimson. Sweet, gamey and rich on the nose with far more concentration than many 1990s yet with sufficient refreshment too. This tasted a bit like a souped-up Graves. Racy. Perhaps this wine communicates winemaking a little bit more than terroir but it's a great, compact, dense wine with lift and more than a hint of soy sauce. Umami, anyone? (JR)