2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes

Last year, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes did not perform well in my tastings. However, that is not the case this year. It exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as a surprisingly supple style, full body, and pure cassis and black cherry fruit intermixed with hints of Provencal herbs/garrigue, lavender and dusty, loamy soil notes. This round, generous, seductive 2010 is a blend of 60% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Counoise from 85- to 105-year-old vines located in the northwestern sector of the appellation. It should drink well for 10-12 years. I am happy to see that proprietor Michel Arnaud has again turned out one of the best value-priced Chateauneuf du Papes of the appellation. Importers: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880 and Village Wine Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 673-1056

Tasted as a barrel sample, the 2010 Domaine La Millière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes is an old vine blend of 60% Grenache and then equal parts Mourvedre, Syrah, Cinsault, and Counoise, that’s aged all in foudre and concrete tank. It displays a deep, semi-opaque purple color to go with aromas of crunchy black raspberry, wet stone like minerality, sappy, resinous herbs, licorice, and some exotic spice thrown in for good measure. Full-bodied and structured on the palate, with the textbook 2010 freshness and focus, as well as solid concentration, and a fair dose of ripe tannin, this classic 2010 needed lots of air to shine and continually gained weight and depth over the three days I had the bottle open. There’s an elegance and balance to it that will allow it to drink well on release, yet it should ideally be given 5-6 years of bottle age.

(60% grenache and 10% each of mourvedre, syrah, cinsault and counoise, raised in concrete and old foudres): Deep ruby. Sexy red fruit aromas are complicated by garrigue and Asian spices. Refreshingly taut and nervy on the palate, with juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors putting on weight with air. The raspberry notes repeats on the long, spice-accented finish. This wine should age well on its balance.