2009 Echezeaux du Dessus

The 2009 Echezeaux du Dessus is quite a bit more introspective and harder to read than the Chapelle at this stage. Sleek, silky tannins frame the essence of red berries, rose petals, mint and sweet spices. This is a totally engaging, elegant wine that only needs time. Still, from time to time its potential comes through beautifully. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Cecile Tremblay is one of Burgundy’s emerging young growers. I was very impressed with all of the wines I tasted. Tremblay farms four hectares of vineyards across eleven appellations. She favors lengthy macerations (the 2009s spent 30 days on the skins) with no chaptalization or acidification. The percentage of whole clusters varies from wine to wine and can reach 100% at the grand cru level. The wines stay on the lees with no racking until they are prepared for bottling. New oak ranges from 20% for the village wines to 70% for the Grand Crus. These are striking wines, but there is every reason to believe the best is yet to come from this small, high-quality domaine. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

(80% vendange entier, 70% new oak) Good deep red-ruby. Complex smoky aromas of red fruits, tobacco and faded rose. Suave, broad, rich and stylish, with subtle inner-mouth aromatic character. Fine-grained without any impression of weight. Finishes with building tannins and lovely lingering perfume. Tremblay says this wine has opened considerably since the 2010 harvest.