2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reine Bois

A blockbuster-styled effort, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de La Reine des Bois doesn’t pull any punches and gives up rocking aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis, graphite, spice-box, lavender and herbs. Possessing full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and thrilling purity, it can be enjoyed now for its exuberant character, but will also evolve gracefully going forward. As I wrote in the intro for this domaine last year, Domaine de la Mordoree is a reference point estate for Chateauneuf du Pape. Run by the talented brother duo of Fabrice and Christophe Delorme, with Christophe making the wines, they produce a relatively modern-styled Chateauneuf, as well as more than noteworthy Liracs and Tavels. For this tasting at the domaine (I was also able to taste through this full lineup again, from bottles in the U.S.), we started with the older vintages and worked toward the more current releases. In addition to their Reine des Bois cuvee, the Delorme brothers also release a special cuvee call the Cuvee de la Plume du Peintre. It’s made only in top vintages, and, as of today, it’s only been made in 2003 and 2005. There’s a scant 150 cases of each. Coming from a plot of 80-year-old vines located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, the blend has changed between the two releases, as has the elevage. Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258

Vivid ruby. Deeply pitched black raspberry, cherry and floral aromas are brightened by notes of Asian spices and minerals. Rich and fleshy but shockingly lithe, offering juicy red and dark berry compote flavors and complicating notes of candied lavender and allspice. Finishes sweet and long, with outstanding clarity and persistence.