2005 Opus One

At the 20 year point, and this is classic Opus, stately, reserved, balanced, richly aromatic, layered with incense and sandalwood that appear in waves through the palate and is just so damn good. Captures the generosity of Napa, the gentle spices of a warm season, and yet there are slate tannins that tug and slow things down. This one reminds me of the sibling relationship with Mouton, more than any other in this lineup - it delivers a kick of generosity and opulence without ever going too far. Love it. Michael Silacci sole winemaker at this point. Tasting even better than in 2019. Think my favourite of the decade, certainly for drinking now. 100% new French oak for ageing, 20 days skin contact.

88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec. Aged for 18 months in new French oak. Opaque garnet. Worlds apart from the 2018: mature mushroom, sous bois, beef and blackcurrant. Excellent texture: fine but present tannin; formal yet not austere. Still has the core fruit to last. (RH)

88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec. Cool season with record May rainfall. Winemaker Michael Silacci had to be patient and picked right up to 2 November! Then the rains began. Wine is b lended on blind tasting. The offcuts go into Overture. There were three winemaking eras here: Lucien Sionneau at the Robert Mondavi winery from 1979 to 1984 ; Patrick Léon and Tim Mondavi 1985 – 90 and then Patrick and Tim at Opus’s own winery 1991 to 2000 ; then f rom 2001 onwards it was Silacci. They have been organic for 11 years and are moving to biodynamics as well as gradually changing the row orientation whe n they replant , to combat climate change. Very deep crimson with some shading. Intense, quite spicy and complex nose. Dry finish with some savoury sage character. Appetising rather than extreme. Really quite dry on the end! (JR)