2003 Opus One

Deep plum colour, as with so many of these it is deep and inviting but retains nuance. In the sweet spot for drinking, not as concentrated as some, waves of tobacco and autumnal leaf, white pepper and fennel, cranberries, sage and loganberry fruit, with grilled almonds. Soft landings but moreish and mouthwatering. 100% new French oak for ageing, harvest September 17 to November 2. The yields here were the highest of the decade, cropped at 5 tons per acre instead of the usual 4 ton. This was the last vintage where the families were directly involved in the blending, and the last one with Patrick Leon and Tim Mondavi as co-winemakers.

From a vintage that saw plenty of rain at harvest, the 2003 Opus One is nevertheless ripe and nicely concentrated, with plenty of intensity in its ripe cassis and redcurrant fruit as well as spicy, herbal, and cedary nuances. The tannins are certainly more present here, and probably always will be, but this is a classic, impeccably put-together Cabernet that will evolve for another 15 years. The blend is 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec.

This blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec aged 17 months in French oak is a strong effort offering creme de cassis, cedarwood, white chocolate and spice box. It possesses a Bordeaux-like personality, as one might expect since Opus One is owned by Baroness Philippe de Rothschild and the winemaking team comes primarily from Pauillac. The significant tannin in the wine provides a slight austerity, but this is a full-bodied, rich effort that marks the beginning of a period when Opus One finally began to live up to the enormous potential first announced in the late 1970s by the late Baron Philippe de Rothschild and the late Robert Mondavi. Although accessible now, the 2003 will benefit from another 4-5 years of cellaring and should keep for two decades. Tel. (707) 944-9442