1998 Opus One

El Nino brought rain and changeable weather followed by exceptionally late Oct harvest. A vintage damned from the start. Cabernet Sauvignon 91%, Cabernet Franc 7%, Merlot 1%, Petit Verdot & Malbec 1%. Skin contact 36 days, 16 months in new French oak. Very, very glossy crimson with some evolution already at the rim. Toasty, open nose. Sweet start to the palate. Nothing like the 1997 in nobility. Tannins and acidity crowd in at the finish. Jagged. Difficult to predict evolution. Slightly hot finish. (JR)

This has quite a savory, almost smoky nose that seems more Bordeaux than Napa. Good acidity and balance on the palate. Well-knit tannins with blackberry, plum and damson. Very solid and well-structured, certainly better than the 1996. Much more subtle than I expected. (NM, Wine Journal)

A surprisingly feeble garnet/ruby color already displaying pink and amber hues is followed by a Medoc-like bouquet of cedar, plums, cherries, and spice box with hints of sweet oak as well as roasted peanuts. The wine is light to medium-bodied, with fine balance but a short finish. This fully mature 1998 requires consumption over the next 5-8 years. If the Bordelais can significantly drop prices, recognizing the inherent weaknesses in the international marketplace as well as the overall quality of the wines, why can't California wine producers do the same, especially when this vintage is considerably inferior to 1997 and 1996? Tel. (707) 944-9442; Fax (707) 944-2753