2011 Ducru Beaucaillou

From a vintage that's drinking nicely today, the 2011 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou has a medium-bodied, foursquare, concentrated, and incredibly satisfying style as well as textured aromatics and flavors. It's balanced, has ripe tannins, outstanding length, and another 20-30 years of overall longevity. I think it's a small step back from the 2012, but these are both charming, enjoyable vintages that already offer pleasure.

'Early budbreak in March followed by a very warm and dry spring, with above-average temperatures and fine weather for flowering, predicted an early harvest (3 weeks ahead of 2010). Drought conditions in early summer continued until the second week of July. Rain in late July, followed by sunshine, ensured an early veraison. August weather was variable and overall temperatures were slightly cooler than average, extending the growing cycle, favouring full flavour development. Harvest was early, under a perfect September sun.' Harvest: 3–10 October. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot. Bruno Borie noted that the IPT (polyphenol index and ripeness level was the same as in 2010 and yet the wines are so different. The analyses do not tell you everything.  Deep garnet with light rim. Lifted leafy aroma with notes of undergrowth. Tannins are a little bit lean and stringy but there is still an elegance to the structure here. A bit lean on the mid palate too. Surprisingly long.  (JH)

Almost as much tannin as in 2010 in terms of analysis, because this was a dry year, with small berries. Touch of smoked herbs, dry leaf, fennel and liqourice, along with plentiful cassis and bilberry fruit. This still feels self-contained and confident, ready to drink although will soften further over next few years. Harvest September 5 to 25, 100% new oak, Eric Boissenot consultant, the first year of his working without his father Jacques, Virginie Sallette technical director.