2009 Chateauneuf du Pape la Fontaine Blanc

The 100% Roussanne cuvee, the expensive but very white Burgundy-like 2009 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape La Fontaine blanc comes from 70+-year-old Roussanne vines and is aged 6-8 months in 600-liter demi-muids. It exhibits intense aromas of flowers, honeysuckle, candle wax, rose water, orange marmalade and apricots. Full-bodied with great acidity, the wood is pushed way to the background. Domaine Grand Veneur's estate vineyards have been managed brilliantly and many exceptional wines as well as wine values have been produced by the two Jaume brothers, Sebastien and Christophe. Furthermore, by establishing a negociant operation under the name Alain Jaume, they have done nothing but enhance their reputation throughout the southern Rhone. With respect to the estate bottled Chateauneuf du Papes, the Jaumes own nearly 40 acres of vines, all situated at the very northern end of the appellation, in the direction of Orange. Two of the finest white Chateauneuf du Papes of the appellation are made at Grand Veneur. As my value picks in issue #190 indicated, their entire white wine program merits serious consideration. Readers should not forget the great values I reviewed in issue #190: 2009 G.V. Cotes du Rhone blanc (86), 2009 G.V. Cotes du Rhone rose (87), 2009 G.V. Cotes du Rhone Reserve (87), 2009 G.V. Cotes du Rhone-Villages Les Champauvins (90+), 2009 G.V. Lirac Clos de Sixte (93), 2009 Alain Jaume Cotes du Ventoux Les Gelinottes (89), 2009 Alain Jaume Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue (92). Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

100% Roussanne. Quite deep greenish gold. Big, full and pungent with obvious oak influence. This is slightly reminiscent of an Australian dry white! (Big, well made..) (JR)

The 2009 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Fontaine is 100% Roussanne and possesses first class aromas of pineapple and exotic fruits, buttered bread, and lemon zest nuances. Very fresh and clean on the nose, the wine shows a touch more fruit and roundness on the palate than the ’08, with medium to full body, fleshy, rich fruit, zesty acidity and a brilliantly focused finish. A superb white, this can be drunk now as well as cellared for 10+ years.