2006 Hautes Cotes de Nuits

Gros's 2006 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits is more forward and enjoyable in its first year of bottle than its 2005 counterpart was at a similar stage. Flattering, ripe black raspberry is underlain by subtle suggestions of chalk and wet stone on a palate of considerable polish, and this finishes with juicy exuberance. It was harvested very late – and tastes that way – yet at moderate (natural) alcohol of 13.2%, albeit high for the Hautes-Cotes. I would plan to enjoy this by 2011. Gros says she did no pigeage here – and for that matter, very little on her other 2006s, an approach that seems to be becoming standard operating procedure here. Anne Gros's 2006s were bottled after only 15 months to preserve the fruit and charm of a vintage she envisages for near-term enjoyment. This is a vintage whose strong suits are characteristics she regularly says she prizes above all – elegance, charm, lift – perhaps one reason why she has been particularly successful. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93