2009 Hautes Cotes de Nuits

The 2009 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits is fleshy, seductive and immediate in its charms. In other words, very 2009. The warmth of the vintage comes through nicely in this supple, racy red. The Hautes-Cotes de Nuits is fleshier than the Hautes-Cotes de Beaune, but doesn’t have that wine’s drive or energy. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. No known American importer.

His 2009 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits is absolutely beautiful in this vintage. Pears, white flowers and citrus are just some of the notes that emerge from this impeccable, exciting wine. This is a fabulous effort from start to finish. The 40% Pinot Blanc no doubt contributes to the wine's freshness. Floral, mineral notes wrap around the refined finish. Readers looking for an under the radar 2009 white should start here. Incidentally, this is a wine that has often aged far better and longer than its humble pedigree suggests.

Good deep ruby-red. Lively aromas of blackberry, violet, licorice and bitter chocolate. Juicy and bright, with lovely minerally cut. A bit tight and youthfully imploded but sharply delineated for 2009. Finishes with licorice and bitter chocolate nuances. This has a low pH of 3.4, says Jayer. (The Hautes Cotes de Beaune was only about 60% through its malolactic fermentation.)