2006 Hautes Cotes de Nuits

While the Jayer-Gilles 2006 Hautes Cotes de Nuits exhibits the same dark, almost blue-edged youthful healthiness of color as its Beaune counterpart, it trades a bit of freshness for a yet sweeter, almost candied dark cherry and black raspberry character. Vanilla, resin, nutmeg, and coconut are contributed by new oak; there is a bit less sappy finishing exuberance than in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune; yet there's also added roasted red meat depth. History suggests that this seamlessly ripe Pinot will perform well for 5-7 years, and I would be inclined to leave it alone for the next couple. Gilles Jayer is well-known for his wines' concentration, sweetness of fruit, and structure, and it was evident from cask that he had experienced no qualms or compunction about swinging for the fences in 2006, either. Jayer related that not more than 15% of inferior fruit had to be culled from any of his parcels. Malo-lactic transformations were even later and more protracted here in this vintage than in 2005. I last tasted these wines ten days before the commencement of bottling, which on account of their tardy evolution was due to take place the same week for all but one appellation. The likely exception was a Les Damodes "all" two and a half barrels of which still harbored malic acid and were full of gas Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083