2004 Grands Echezeaux

The 2004 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru from Domaine Georges Nöellat comes from a much-maligned growing season. It was cracked open just to see if it displayed displeasing green/vegetal notes, like so many other bottles. Answer? Surprisingly, no. It’s very pure, with brambly red fruit, loamy scents and light floral aromas. The well-balanced palate delivers a fine bead of acidity and, again, no signs of greenness. The blueberry-tinged finish is pliant and pure. This was a delight.