2006 Grands Echezeaux

Laurent's three barrels of 2006 Grands Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes – two others were sacrificed in the interest of raising the quality both of this wine and of the Echezeaux into which it was blended – originates in a parcel whose vines date to 1926, and another whose wine he only recently acquired, and that he says were planted by a cousin of the first proprietor two years later. "These vines," he asserts, "are as close as is possible to the mother chalk" at the narrow, northern tip of the appellation. Incidentally, this was the wine Laurent chose to show last in presenting his collection. Cherry and black raspberry with their spirituous Doppelganger; forest floor you could measure in acres; a field of violets; and enough roasted game to do a Medieval banquet proud combine for an aromatic display of remarkable depth and intensity. On a palate of incredible textural richness, liqueur-like black fruits; palpably dense chalkiness; demiglace of myriad meats; and mysterious notes of decadent wood and forest creatures pick up further complexity (as if this weren't over-kill!) from toasted pralines, brown spices, and dark chocolate. This finishes like a tidal wave moving across the palate with sinister reverberation, yet for all of its viscosity, density, and power, if leaves behind a feeling and flavors as uplifting as they are ultimately ineffable. I would be thrilled to follow wherever it led, for the next 20 years. Dominique Laurent – whose methodology I attempted to clarify in a bit more detail in my report for issue 171 – purchased fewer wines in 2006 (not all of which I tasted) than he had in 2005, particularly at the lower end of the classificatory spectrum and in the Cote de Beaune. On the other hand, there were some correspondingly sweet opportunities, he noted, to expand acquisitions in top-notch crus due to initial hesitation of many negociants to buy heavily into this vintage. Laurent was highly enthusiastic about the quality of the wines he did raise, which in the glass often proved even more infectious than his enthusiasm – and that's saying something! What's more, although these wines – generally produced in 50-250 case quantities – have a reputation for high prices, most of these 2006s – especially in their upper-echelons – strike me as exhibiting excellent price:quality rapport. While absence of chaptalization and absence of sulfur during the elevage remain constant features this year, less of the wine Laurent purchased and raised from 2006 was vinified with stems than in most years. Vieilles Vignes," incidentally, is used like a brand name chez Laurent, referring to all of his better wines, whereas his "Tradition" line – none of which I tasted – consists of cuvees rendered in slightly larger volumes and exclusively for the French market. Since the words "Vieilles Vignes" are prominently displayed on the label, I have included them as part of each wine's description, although one will often see Laurent's same top wines referred to without that designation. Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808