2005 Fonroque

A little subdued, with raspberry leaf and loam, with blueberry and redcurrant fruits. Flint reduction is still apparent on the first nose, and this really does need an hour in a carafe to soften and open. Lean and savoury, not giving much away - I would give it a lot of air, and coax the gentle fruit out of the glass. Director Alain Moueix, an early adopter, had just completed a full conversion to organic farming in this vintage, and had just begun with biodynamics also.

This biodynamically run estate produced a blend of 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc in 2005. A strong showing for Fonroque, this super-concentrated, opaque ruby/purple wine is still remarkably youthful. It offers notes of wet rocks intermixed with blackcurrant, black cherry and blackberry fruit. Some licorice, truffle and earth are also present in this full-bodied, stunningly rich wine, which may be the best Fonroque I have ever tasted from producer Alain Moueix. Don’t touch it for another 4-5 years and drink it over the following 20.