2004 Louis Roederer Rose

The pale-colored 2004 Brut Vintage Rosé flows with subtle, silky layers of perfumed fruit. This is an understated, almost shy wine, although its class and pedigree are evident. Still, there is a measure of body and richness that seems a touch elusive in this vintage. This is 70% Pinot Noir from Cumieres that was cold-macerated on the skins for 6-7 days, and 30% Chardonnay from Avize and Mesnil. About 10% of the wine was aged in oak and dosage was 11-12 grams per liter. This is Lot L031587F100535, disgorged in August 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. This is another set of exceptional new releases from Roederer, one of the very few of the larger houses that captures the full potential of Champagne as an art of blended wine. Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon and his team have done a marvelous job with these Champagnes. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2004 Cristal, which will be released in the spring of 2010. Lecaillon is also working on a new wine, a Brut Nature Champagne (equal parts Pinot and Chardonnay, and likely to be a vintage wine) which will also be released next spring. Readers who want to learn more about this historic house may want to take a look at my vertical of Cristal going back to 1979. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

(L031587F100526) Bright salmon-skin color. Fresh redcurrant and blood orange aromas are underscored by notes of talc and quinine, with gentle leesiness adding depth and a sense of richness. Displays youthfully tight citrus and mineral qualities on entry, but more powerful red berry notes come on strong in the middle palate. Graceful but powerful too, with good finishing grip and a lingering note of spicecake. I find this complex enough to enjoy right now. This is made from 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay.