2006 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

From 60-80 year old vines in En Champ, Combe du Dessus (by his cuverie) and several smaller estate parcels north of the village, Mortet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes received 75% new wood, but the evidence has been buried. Scents of rose hip, dark cherry, and indefinite floral perfumes lead into a silken, subtly saline and savory palate that strikes a thought-provoking as well as sensually satisfying balance between elements carnal, mineral, and fruity. This displays the lift and refinement that render so many 2006s charming, and while it will probably hold up well to 5-7 years of bottle age, I can see no reason for long-deferring the pleasure of its company. Dec 2009, www.robertparker.com