1990 Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses

Tasted at the Chambolle Amoureuses vertical in London, this was the second time that I have tasted the 1990 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru les Amoureuses in the last 12 months. This was definitely a better bottle. The nose has more class here, though still with that tangible sense of opulence thanks to its blueberry and iodine, but here mingling with more ferrous and undergrowth scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple texture struck through with fine acidity. No, it does not have the sophistication of the 1993 or the 1996, but it is still a sensual, comely wine that maintains fine precision on the finish. This is probably at its peak right now. Tasted November 2015.

The 1990 Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses from Drouhin is at its peak. It captures the essence of the vineyard with a controlled opulence on the nose: plush blueberries, iodine, cassis and orange blossom all combine to great effect. The palate is sweet, fleshy and sensual with well-judged acidity and lovely balance, a touch of piquancy toward the finish. It does not quite have the sophistication of a top-tier Amoureuses, yet for a 1990 this has clearly aged with both style and substance.

A group of Drouhin’s Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses was beautiful. I thought the 1985 was the most complete of the wines. It showed elements of sweet, ethereal fruit and pretty tertiary nuances. The 1990 was an especially delicate Les Amoureuses, with notable purity and inner sweetness, although it faded a bit in the glass. The 1978 Les Amoureuses offered up sweet scents of tobacco, autumn leaves and herbs. Here the fruit was a touch faded, and the wine came across as slightly dry on the finish. Chef Troisgros’s pigeon dish was absolutely divine, even if it was perhaps a touch too rich for these delicate Burgundies.