2009 Malleolus

The 2009 Malleolus is sourced from 25- to 75-year-old vines aged for 18 months in new French oak. It has a rather predictable nose with that veneer of glossy, vanilla-tinged oak and yet you cannot deny that it is well-defined and maintains good freshness, with the fruit suggesting it will meld together with time. The palate is ripe and voluptuous with sensual black cherries, blueberry and layers of creamy oak on the finish. Although it needs to develop more individuality through its bottle evolution, it is undeniably very well-crafted and will please those who love opulent Ribera del Duero wines. Drink 2014-2020. The important year for Bodegas Emilio Moro is 1932 – when the Finca Resalso vines were planted and Emilio Moro was born. For many years the fruit was sold off in bulk until 1988, when Jose Moro Espinosa invested his savings and established his own bodega, joining the D.O. the following year. I found the wines to be rich, decadent and packed to the rafters with ebullient ripe fruit. Personally, I would prefer to see less dependency on new oak, as I feel that it is masking the individuality of the terroir. If you have a pretty face – there is no need to hide it away. Importer: Please contact the winery to find your nearest importer. www.emiliomoro.com

Opaque purple. A heady, complex bouquet evokes blackberry and blackcurrant liqueur, with suave oak spice and potpourri elements. Sweet, broad and pliant, the intense dark fruit flavors showing great power, richness and depth. Very young but flat-out seductive, finishing on a sweet, sappy note of candied dark fruits, with lush, harmonious tannins. I also had the chance to revisit this bodega's ultra-premium Malleolus de Sanchomartin and Malleolus de Valderramiro from the 2008 vintage (reviewed last year), and while both wines are years from maturity they show strikingly flamboyant character and make a serious impression right now. I suppose I'd feel some guilt pangs if I opened either of them now, but it would be guilt I could deal with after asking for mercy from the wine gods.